But lots of flexibility to move the components around as you paint the intricate areas. It’s a bit more time consuming than some people like, but if you are working on a display piece this gives your parts a solid hold. Add a paperclip or wire with some super-glue into the hole as your pin and just push this into the cork. Just drill a tiny hole in a part of the model component you won’t see when it’s assembled. I’ll normally choose cork as an option if I am pinning my models in sub-assemblies. I love using cork for holding my models, it’s super cheap for one. If nothing else, holding a paint bottle in a fist rather than holing the model base with fingertips will mean less fatigue in your hands. But this is cheap and it does the job to a certain degree Personally I prefer handles which are a touch more rigid than the ones where putty is used to attach the model. ![]() ![]() There’s absolutely nothing wrong with this option if you have an old paint pot and some blu-tack you have a painting handle. The thing you don’t want are Vinyl Gloves – these are for making salads. If (like I have with some brands) you develop a latex allergy and get itchy hands from prolonged wear – Nitrile Gloves are the next best choice, they are often harder wearing than latex but you do lose quite a bit of the feedback, many tattooists will use these. The best option is to get powder-free (for obvious reasons) Latex Gloves which are commonly used for surgery as they give the best tactile response. If you are going with gloves, the downside is that they are pretty much one-use. Personally (situation dependent) I tend to keep a glove on my model holding hand, even when using a painting handle Results will vary depending on how precise and soft your touch is when handling models – many people have no issues at all. Gloves have 2 benefits, they keep skin oils off the model and stop you from polishing the surface smooth and they keep away the coarse texture of fingerprint grooves. But I have a condition I’ve since come to dub as “sandpaper fingers. Worse still, in some of the more pointy areas, my fingers would wear through the primer back to the base plastic – nasty. At the best of times, matte paints would wear down and lose the matte finish and end up being semi-gloss by the end of a paint job. When I first got back into miniature painting I was having lots of issues with the finish of my models by constantly handling them. Ok, so this is much less of a handle and more just a barrier between your fingers and the model you are painting. for one reason or another, each of these options deserves to be in the “Best” category. But I strongly recommend you read into the options and choose the best of the bunch for you. The list below is based on our preference based on all of these considerations and more. The ‘Best’ Hobby Painting Handle for Miniatures, 3D Prints & Scale ModelsĪs I always say with these articles, the term best is very subjective, it could mean the best price, the best value, best features or which gives you the best results. So please read it before buying the wrong thing. However, there are good reasons why the handles below may be better or worse for you. ![]() If you want to avoid all the text and just get the list, see here. Best Hobby Painting Handle for Miniatures, 3D Prints & Scale Models – Summary To see all of our guides to the Best Tools for Miniatures, click on the image above. Start with our list of Essential Hobby Tools which will lead you to find the Top-10 tools for each category. is dedicated to finding the best tools for your hobby.
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